If the free report looks good, add the premium check for £4.99. This verifies:
- The car is not reported stolen
- There is no outstanding finance
- It has not been declared a write-off
- The VIN matches official records
- Number of previous keepers
- Any colour changes
This is particularly important when buying from a private seller, where you have less legal protection than buying from a dealer.
When you go to view the car, check the paperwork:
- V5C (logbook): Make sure it exists, is an original (not a photocopy), and the details match the car. Check the VIN on the V5C against the car. The V5C should show the seller's name and address at the top.
- MOT certificate: Check the expiry date. Cross-reference with the MOT history from your CarCostCheck report.
- Service history: Stamped service books or invoices. Gaps in servicing may indicate neglect.
- Previous MOT certificates: If available, check the mileage progression matches your report.
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Bodywork
- Walk around the car slowly. Look for mismatched paint, orange peel texture, or overspray on trim
- Check panel gaps. Uneven gaps suggest accident damage or poor repair
- Run your fingers along panel edges. Filler feels different to original metal
- Open all doors, the bonnet, and the boot. Check hinges for paint marks or replaced bolts
Tyres
- Check all four tyres (plus the spare) for legal tread depth (1.6mm minimum, ideally 3mm+)
- Look for uneven wear, which indicates alignment or suspension problems
- Check the tyre brands match in pairs (front pair, rear pair). Mismatched tyres suggest budget maintenance
Interior
- Check for damp or musty smells (flood damage or water leaks)
- Lift the carpet in the boot and footwells. Look for water stains or corrosion
- Test every electrical feature: windows, mirrors, air conditioning, heated seats, infotainment
- Check seat wear matches the mileage. A car claiming 30,000 miles should not have heavily worn seats
Engine
- Check the oil on the dipstick. It should be between the markers and not black/sludgy
- Look for oil leaks around the engine. Check the ground where the car is parked
- Remove the oil filler cap and check for a creamy residue (possible head gasket failure)
- Check coolant level and condition. It should be coloured (green, blue, or pink), not rusty
- Drive for at least 15 minutes to get the engine fully warm
- Test brakes from various speeds. Listen for grinding, pulling, or vibration
- Drive over speed bumps. Listen for clunks from the suspension
- Test all gears (including reverse). The gearbox should be smooth with no crunching
- Drive at motorway speeds if possible. Check for vibrations or pulling
- Turn the steering fully left and right at low speed. Listen for clicking (CV joint wear)
For cars over £5,000, consider a professional pre-purchase inspection from the AA, RAC, or an independent mechanic. These cost £100-200 and can reveal hidden issues that a non-expert would miss. They are particularly worthwhile for cars with complex mechanicals (turbocharged, diesel, hybrid, or premium brands).
What checks should I do before buying a used car?
Free CarCostCheck report (MOT, mileage, reliability, costs), premium check (£4.99 for stolen, finance, write-off), document verification, physical inspection, test drive, and optionally a professional inspection.
How much does a car check cost?
CarCostCheck's free check covers MOT analysis, mileage, and running costs. The premium check adds stolen, finance, and write-off data for £4.99. Typical alternatives charge £19.99 for less data.
Should I check a car from a dealer?
Yes, always. Not all dealers are thorough with their own checks. Running your own takes minutes and costs nothing with the free CarCostCheck report.
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Related reading: Car Check Before Buying: 10 Things to Look For | How to Spot a Clocked Car | Best HPI Check Alternative UK 2026